Photo Essay: A walk through old South Mumbai

The joy of a weekend outing, a short holiday or a vacation is always greater when you're with people you’re most at ease with. In my case, it’s my family.

For several years now, my wife and I have been making regular weekend trips to South Mumbai from our home in the northern suburbs. That part of the city, once a busy commercial hub, still holds a special place for us. It has an old-world charm that seems to belong to another time—shaped as much by memories as by its architecture, historic landmarks, single-screen theatres, art galleries and cultural spaces.

We feel a natural affinity for that part of the city, having spent our early years living and working there.

The reason we gravitate towards South Mumbai—especially the vibrant stretches of Churchgate, Flora Fountain (left) and Colaba—is the mix of sea-facing promenades, footpath booksellers and eclectic food. It’s the kind of place where you can have a good time without doing anything in particular—just walking along the broad pavements, talking about small things, and being content in each other’s company.

With that in mind, my wife and I made yet another Sunday morning trip to South Mumbai. Instead of taking a suburban train, as we usually do, we drove down, covering the roughly 28 km (17 miles) in about an hour—something unthinkable on

most weekdays.

We reached Colaba around 11 a.m. and parked on Rampart Row at Kala Ghoda—or “Black Horse,” named after a mounted statue of King Edward VII that once stood here. From there, we walked past heritage buildings, including the iconic music store Rhythm House, now closed, and the 153-year-old David Sassoon Library and Reading Room.

We then stopped briefly at Jehangir Art Gallery and the 1922-built city museum now known as Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya, taking in some of the artworks and artefacts on display. The tree-lined stretch between the two doubles up as an open-air art plaza, where lesser-known but remarkably talented artists display works that should have a place inside art galleries.

Our trips to the city are never complete without a small food detour, and South Mumbai rarely disappoints. This time, we went back to an old favourite we’ve been visiting for over three decades—Delhi Darbar on Colaba Causeway. Known for its Mughlai fare, especially biryanis, it felt like the right place to return to. We kept it simple: butter chicken with naan and roti, followed by a chicken biryani. The portions were still generous, but the biryani didn’t quite taste the way we remembered it.

Lunch and dessert over, we cut across the busy stretch of Colaba Causeway and headed to the seafront. This part of Mumbai’s coast is framed by two well-known landmarks facing each other—the arched Gateway of India (topmost) and Taj Mahal Palace Hotel (above), built in an Indo-Gothic style.

Being a Sunday, the place was packed with locals and tourists, selfie-seekers and photographers offering to capture the moment for a price. With barely any room to stand, we had to give up the idea of lingering by the sea and made a quick retreat.

By now, it was late afternoon, but we’d one more thing on our agenda – books. From Colaba, we drove to a book exhibition near Churchgate railway station and spent over an hour browsing rows that seemed to stretch on endlessly, picking up a few along the way. There were books of every kind—fiction and non-fiction, paperbacks and hardbacks—but I didn’t find the authors I had in mind. Which was just as well, given the pile of unread books at home.

One of the nice things about these outings in South Mumbai is how close everything is. Places we usually visit, including the 3.6-km long Marine Drive or Queen’s Necklace, are within easy walking distance. If walking isn’t your thing, you can always drive down or take a cab or bus.

Summers can be harsh, so evenings or the winter months are the best time to be out in South Mumbai—whether it’s for a quiet walk, browsing books, a meal, or just looking out at the sea.

© Prashant C. Trikannad